Random set of the day: Motor Replacement Unit for Battery or Motor-Less Trains 12V

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Motor Replacement Unit for Battery or Motor-Less Trains 12V

Motor Replacement Unit for Battery or Motor-Less Trains 12V

©1980 LEGO Group

Today's random set is 7865 Motor Replacement Unit for Battery or Motor-Less Trains 12V, released during 1980. It's one of 28 Trains sets produced that year. It contains 19 pieces.

It's owned by 625 Brickset members. If you want to add it to your collection you should find it for sale at BrickLink, where new ones sell for around $232.40, or eBay.


40 comments on this article

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By in New Zealand,

Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded.

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By in United States,

The only pieces I truly understand here are the 2x4 plates. I suppose the weight bricks help apply more pressure to the wheels and help keep the train on the tracks? I had to go to BrickLink to even see that there's these gray rubber tires that attach to the wheels, I thought it was all metal. I can only assume those rods connect to holes in the wheels so they are alligned and move at the same rate, and that they somehow slot into those black curvy things, too, but how do you attach those to the motor base? What do the additional wheels attach to? I know that it's a replacement kit, but aside from a burnt out motor or some worn out tires, what do you need all the extra stuff for, and what does it all do?

Mr. Krabs... I am SO confused...

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By in New Zealand,

@Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Ooh. Can we get rid of the boring city stuff too then.
But really, who decides what is 'boring'. And how would you easily take out sets like this without going through manually finding each one.

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By in Panama,

This was to replace a train motor that broke or an entirely new motor in case your train did not have one?

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By in New Zealand,

@Miyakan said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Ooh. Can we get rid of the boring city stuff too then.
But really, who decides what is 'boring'. And how would you easily take out sets like this without going through manually finding each one."


Good point. But that doesn't change my opinion on this set being boring. It has no minifigs, no build to look at and nothing interesting at all!

And what boring city sets? at least they have builds and minifigures to look at.

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By in Canada,

LEGO made these (I think) because they knew the retainer clips at each end of the motor housing were easy to break off, and sometimes builds required things to lock in to them. In my first, ignorant experience with the similar 9V motor I broke one of them (I count myself blessed it was one rather than two), and have been extra careful ever since.

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By in United States,

@MCLegoboy:
If you look at the tender on 7750, the 12v motor was apparently designed to run with the extra wheels mounted in the center of the motor. I looked up the set inventory on Bricklink, and their listing for the loose wheels shows that there's a thing that's shaped like a nail head on the back, and the motor has keyhole slots in the center of the sides. You push the nail head into the top of the slot, and it drops down to rest on the track. There's a hole on the wheel that appears to match the one in the center of the driver rod, but I have no idea how to connect the two. Without that, the center wheel would basically just be decorative, since there's no way to rest any weight on it. If you can connect it to the driver rod, that would actually spread some of the weight to the center wheels, so you should (in theory) get a little more traction.

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By in Canada,

The main thing about this post is: 28. Imagine a year where there are 28 Train sets!!!
even if you remove the 'supplemental' sets, there were still 13 very nice Train sets available that year.

I have never seen a 12v train set in stores in Canada (in the part where I lived as a kid) (in the early 80s, I was following that very closely).

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By in United Kingdom,

I mean those boxing gloves in the bottom right look kinda alright

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By in Albania,

@MCLegoboy said:
"I know that it's a replacement kit, but aside from a burnt out motor or some worn out tires, what do you need all the extra stuff for, and what does it all do?"

The motor can break, and indeed you may need to replace it, not so much the weighted brick. But you can also use this to convert push along train to 12V motorised version, e.g. 7710 . As to specific functions of other elements:

- “rubber tires” are needed because without them 12V trains want to jump out of the track. Wheels are plastic
- weighted bricks - I never dared to run the train without them, don’t want to convert it into a plane :-)
- extra two wheels go to the middle, 12V motors have 6 wheels
- those rods and modified plates are purely decorative to mimic features of real world trains. Each rod connects 3 wheels on the motor; the decorative plate appears only on steam train sets. I guess they were easily broken? They’re not included in 12V sets I have.

I do love 12V trains, my favourite LEGO train system!

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By in United States,

@Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

NOOOOOOOO!

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By in Germany,

@myth said:
" @MCLegoboy said:
"I know that it's a replacement kit, but aside from a burnt out motor or some worn out tires, what do you need all the extra stuff for, and what does it all do?"

The motor can break, and indeed you may need to replace it, not so much the weighted brick. But you can also use this to convert push along train to 12V motorised version, e.g. 7710 . As to specific functions of other elements:

- “rubber tires” are needed because without them 12V trains want to jump out of the track. Wheels are plastic
- weighted bricks - I never dared to run the train without them, don’t want to convert it into a plane :-)
- extra two wheels go to the middle, 12V motors have 6 wheels
- those rods and modified plates are purely decorative to mimic features of real world trains. Each rod connects 3 wheels on the motor; the decorative plate appears only on steam train sets. I guess they were easily broken? They’re not included in 12V sets I have.

I do love 12V trains, my favourite LEGO train system!"


Excellent explanation.

Additional: those "decorative plates" only appear on steam engine sets because they are supposed to represent cylinders. And considering the limitations of the system and the time they were introduced they look excellent at that. Plus the rods can slot into them while moving, giving an even more realistic look.

And as for the comment that this is a boring set, who decides what is considered boring? What is boring to one might be favorite to another.

To me every Superhero set is boring, so please let's get rid of those too, ok? And minifigs? Not interested in those either so let's get rid of RMOTD altogether. I would rather see "sets" like this than the umpteenth battle mech of some kind (or BrickHeadz, or Star Wars battle pack) which are all basically the same, aren't they?

Note: the last paragraph contains deliberate exaggerations and generalization to drive home a point, which is, if you are not interested in a specific RSOTD, just wait a day and the next one might be for you again.

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By in Albania,

@AustinPowers said:
"Excellent explanation.

Additional: those "decorative plates" only appear on steam engine sets because they are supposed to represent cylinders. And considering the limitations of the system and the time they were introduced they look excellent at that. Plus the rods can slot into them while moving, giving an even more realistic look."


Thanks! Wasn’t aware of the cylinder function, may have to acquire at least one steam train to play with it :-)

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By in Australia,

@Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Read the room!

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By in United Kingdom,

@Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

I'm sure Hugh can add a flag to filter out all boring sets.

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By in United Kingdom,

@Kynareth said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Read the room!"


Unfortunately he doesn't know how to define boring...

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By in Netherlands,

Interesting to read about the functionality of these parts and of the 12V system. I've never had experience with it so it's fun to read about its pitfalls and limitations from people with experience.
Random sets like this can make you stop and think about the details.

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By in United Kingdom,

There used to be three versions of trains, to try and cater to all budgets: unmotorised, 4.5v, and 12v. The 4.5v locomotives used 3x batteries, typically housed in a special tender car, and had manual signals which could stop the train, and reversing bricks which would be placed on the outside of the tracks to hit the tender power switch and reverse its polarity and hence the direction of travel. The 12v locos picked up power from conductor rails which were sold separately, and had the option of remote controlled signals, points, level crossings, and decoupling points.

The models were designed specifically to make it easy to upgrade from one variant to another. And you could even run all three on the same tracks if you wanted. This set was the 12v version of the motor, with weight bricks helping to improve the traction which the added power inevitably reduced.

Running trains of all three types was an awful lot of fun for many years!

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By in Malaysia,

@emartinez said:
"This was to replace a train motor that broke or an entirely new motor in case your train did not have one? "

It's to replace a 4.5v motor (eg, in 7720) or to add a motor to a loco that doesn't have one at all (eg 7810).

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By in United Kingdom,

@jsutton said:
"There used to be three versions of trains, to try and cater to all budgets: unmotorised, 4.5v, and 12v. The 4.5v locomotives used 3x batteries, typically housed in a special tender car, and had manual signals which could stop the train, and reversing bricks which would be placed on the outside of the tracks to hit the tender power switch and reverse its polarity and hence the direction of travel. The 12v locos picked up power from conductor rails which were sold separately, and had the option of remote controlled signals, points, level crossings, and decoupling points.

The models were designed specifically to make it easy to upgrade from one variant to another. And you could even run all three on the same tracks if you wanted. This set was the 12v version of the motor, with weight bricks helping to improve the traction which the added power inevitably reduced.

Running trains of all three types was an awful lot of fun for many years!"


Good to see the explanations of the 1980 era trains here; I got 7750 for Christmas 1981 when I was 9 and this was a real game changer Lego wise for me, there was so much realism suddenly in the set design both in the appearance and construction of the sets and the colours used with much more grey used. I still have 2 of the motors shown here, both still working with the original transformer and track; not forming part of my town unfortunately due to space constraints (I suppose I like buildings more than trains...)

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By in United States,

12v trains - the best era, and one we never got here in the USA. In terms of automation and pure elegance, even the holy 9v is second place to this glorious theme. The only thing I don't like is when laying track side-by-side, the tracks are two close together for use by modern trains.

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By in United Kingdom,

@Huw said:
" @Kynareth said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Read the room!"


Unfortunately he doesn't know how to define boring...
"


Oh no, we’d lose all the remaining Rock Raiders and Power Miners sets!

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By in Netherlands,

It's interesting that 12V motors already existed as far back as 1969, this is definately a later generation, as the 1980 era was basicly a modernization, with this new motor, and change to grey rails + accesoires.

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By in Netherlands,

@Murdoch17 said:
"12v trains - the best era, and one we never got here in the USA. In terms of automation and pure elegance, even the holy 9v is second place to this glorious theme. The only thing I don't like is when laying track side-by-side, the tracks are two close together for use by modern trains."

So no LEGO 12V trains from 1969 to 1990 ? or just no grey rail sets?

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By in United States,

@TeriXeri said:
" @Murdoch17 said:
"12v trains - the best era, and one we never got here in the USA. In terms of automation and pure elegance, even the holy 9v is second place to this glorious theme. The only thing I don't like is when laying track side-by-side, the tracks are two close together for use by modern trains."

So no LEGO 12V trains from 1969 to 1990 ? or just no grey rail sets?"


The 12v trains with the electric contact rails down the center were never sold here in the USA. You have to use a transformer to step up the wall power to get the 12v. A guy in my LUG has to do that every time he brings his 12v trains to a display. (he got his overseas from German relatives, I believe)

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By in United States,

I wonder what set is going to be- M O T O R

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By in New Zealand,

@Kynareth said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Read the room!"


Well i couldn't because i was the first to comment!

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By in Netherlands,

@Murdoch17 said:
" @TeriXeri said:
" @Murdoch17 said:
"12v trains - the best era, and one we never got here in the USA. In terms of automation and pure elegance, even the holy 9v is second place to this glorious theme. The only thing I don't like is when laying track side-by-side, the tracks are two close together for use by modern trains."

So no LEGO 12V trains from 1969 to 1990 ? or just no grey rail sets?"


The 12v trains with the electric contact rails down the center were never sold here in the USA. You have to use a transformer to step up the wall power to get the 12v. A guy in my LUG has to do that every time he brings his 12v trains to a display. (he got his overseas from German relatives, I believe)"


Yeah wall power is definately different per region, notable USA using 120V, and I see originally LEGO sold 220V and 110V transformers for their 12V era (altho I'm sure tech-savvy people could use off-brand transformers to get same effect), but if it was not sold at all there, that explains why I don't see a LEGO 120V transformer in the history of 12V trains.

Most european countries switched from 220-240 to 230V standards in the 2000s but that was long after 12V trains.

But this image shows there's still big difference between North America , Japan, and rest of world.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/70/World_Map_of_Mains_Voltages_and_Frequencies%2C_Detailed.svg

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By in United States,

@Murdoch17 said:
"The 12v trains with the electric contact rails down the center were never sold here in the USA. You have to use a transformer to step up the wall power to get the 12v. A guy in my LUG has to do that every time he brings his 12v trains to a display."

That’s not strictly true. Yes. If you use the authentic European transformer, sure. But back when you could walk into a Radio Shack store, they used to sell universal transformers. There was one with a DC output (what most things use with that style cord) and one with AC output (what caused the RCX to have its power port removed because that’s all TLG uses. Tips were interchangeable, and reversible so you could change both shape and polarity. The wall plug itself had a slider switch that let you select the voltage. Put the correct tip on the AC model, with the right polarity, and set to 12v, and you would never need to use one of those adapters again.

Gravatar
By in United Kingdom,

@jsutton said:
"There used to be three versions of trains, to try and cater to all budgets: unmotorised, 4.5v, and 12v. The 4.5v locomotives used 3x batteries, typically housed in a special tender car, and had manual signals which could stop the train, and reversing bricks which would be placed on the outside of the tracks to hit the tender power switch and reverse its polarity and hence the direction of travel. The 12v locos picked up power from conductor rails which were sold separately, and had the option of remote controlled signals, points, level crossings, and decoupling points.

The models were designed specifically to make it easy to upgrade from one variant to another. And you could even run all three on the same tracks if you wanted. This set was the 12v version of the motor, with weight bricks helping to improve the traction which the added power inevitably reduced.

Running trains of all three types was an awful lot of fun for many years!"


You have very nicely said what I was planning to say :-)

Gravatar
By in United States,

@PurpleDave said:
" @Murdoch17 said:
"The 12v trains with the electric contact rails down the center were never sold here in the USA. You have to use a transformer to step up the wall power to get the 12v. A guy in my LUG has to do that every time he brings his 12v trains to a display."

That’s not strictly true. Yes. If you use the authentic European transformer, sure. But back when you could walk into a Radio Shack store, they used to sell universal transformers. There was one with a DC output (what most things use with that style cord) and one with AC output (what caused the RCX to have its power port removed because that’s all TLG uses. Tips were interchangeable, and reversible so you could change both shape and polarity. The wall plug itself had a slider switch that let you select the voltage. Put the correct tip on the AC model, with the right polarity, and set to 12v, and you would never need to use one of those adapters again."


the LEGO sets themselves were not offered in the USA, regardless of whether it was actually possible to power them third-party...

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By in New Zealand,

@Huw said:
" @Kynareth said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Read the room!"


Unfortunately he doesn't know how to define boring...
"


I see Huw is on holiday. (Or using VPN.) Maybe we can hope for some Brickvention posts soon?

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By in New Zealand,

@Maxbricks14 said:
" @Miyakan said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Ooh. Can we get rid of the boring city stuff too then.
But really, who decides what is 'boring'. And how would you easily take out sets like this without going through manually finding each one."


Good point. But that doesn't change my opinion on this set being boring. It has no minifigs, no build to look at and nothing interesting at all!

And what boring city sets? at least they have builds and minifigures to look at."


I present 7896 60205 7499 for no build or minifigure.
5002136 for no minifigure.
And 853570 or 7235 for an example of what I would consider a boring city set. (There are more, but I didn't scroll past 30 pieces.)

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By in United Kingdom,

@Huw said:
" @Kynareth said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Read the room!"


Unfortunately he doesn't know how to define boring...
"

That's easy. It begins with 'star' and ends with 'wars'...

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By in United Kingdom,

Thank you SDlgo9 for sharing the video I forgot how fast 12V trains could go! The slow build shows how to construct the piston mechanism, with the middle wheel just along for the ride.

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By in New Zealand,

@Huw
@Miyakan
@Kynareth

It appears we all don't agree on what defines a boring set.
Which means that, it's treason, then.

@sjr60

WHAT! i shall have you arrested by the Lego city police!

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By in United States,

@Maxbricks14 said:
" @Miyakan said:
" @Maxbricks14 said:
"Not much to talk about here although this would have been useful. @Huw you should edit the RSOTD algorithm so that boring sets like these are excluded."

Ooh. Can we get rid of the boring city stuff too then.
But really, who decides what is 'boring'. And how would you easily take out sets like this without going through manually finding each one."


Good point. But that doesn't change my opinion on this set being boring. It has no minifigs, no build to look at and nothing interesting at all!

And what boring city sets? at least they have builds and minifigures to look at."


Its RANDOM set of the day, not ONLY SETS I WANT TO SEE RANDOMLY each day.

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By in United States,

@Murdoch17:
I wasn't suggesting the sets were sold here, just that there are alternatives to using an international adapter.

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